Read on for an update on Christine's adventures in Prague and wherever the spirit leads. You'll find thoughts, reflections, bemusings, and ... Hmm, you'll just have to read on
Friday, December 15, 2006
Celebrating Christmas Czech Style
I have to share a funny story from that night. I guess as I was walking towards Imelda and her in-laws, Imelda’s father-in-law questioned her, “So, you’re friend is American? But, she’s so small! She’s American??” Czechs as well as many Europeans think automatically that Americans are large, overweight people. They are entirely surprised when they see otherwise. Imelda and I had a good laugh fortunately. I must add, though, that the Czechs better watch out or they will soon have similar rates of obesity. They already lead the European Union in highest rate of colon cancer (I venture a guess based on their starch-filled diet with little fiber.).
Just a few minutes ago I returned from our company’s holiday party, which was held in the building, the party area set up like a Czech market or fair. At five p.m. a folk group started playing folk songs and dancing, which was followed by more modern pieces played by the children of employees. I somehow got roped into volunteering to help kids at a craft table, making cards with stamps, markers, and scissors. It’s was really neat to see kids of so many different nationalities, including Central Asians, Czechs, Americans, and several others. While I enjoyed making a few snowflake-esque cut outs to paste on a few cards, I was very envious of the table next to me where kids were making traditional Czech crafts with dried fruits. Back in the day, Czechs would take apples and make them into candle holders with thin sticks emanating out bearing pieces of dried apricots and raisins. I have to say these very simple ornaments have won me over. I’m a bit tired of the glitzy schmuck of silver and gold bulbs and flashy lights. There’s something to be said for simplicity.
Yet another way in which the holiday season is celebrated in this part of the world is Christmas markets. Last night after a little dinner soiree I took a nice, leisurely walk with my friends Lenka and Karolina to Old Town Square. There are wooden booths with red roofs lining the square with a carved wooden crèche and lookout point in the middle. We sipped on hot glasses of svarak (mulled wine) and took in the sights. Strolling through the streets of Prague Lenka and Karolina told me more about how Czechs celebrate on the 24th. To sum up what Christmas means to most Czechs, according to Lenka and Karolina, it means family time, eating carp and potato salad followed by dozens of little cookies, burning cones or pyramids of frankincense throughout the house, and gathering around the TV to watch Czech fairytales.
Well, now I really have visions of sugarplum fairies dancing in my head :)
Friday, December 08, 2006
An Evening at the Rudolfinum
Well, in my somewhat ugly-American fashion (or perhaps a slavic Bridget Jones' way), I stopped by McDonald's to pick up a quick chicken salad, pushed it into my back pack and hopped on the metro. You see where this is going, right?
Come to find out there were plenty of seats, but I opted for the cheapest, which happened to be the orchestra section behind the Philharmonic. With ticket in hand, I exited the building and made my way to the majestic riverside where I proceeded to eat my chicken salad in the somewhat cold evening. Yes, lovely couples walking hand in hand passed by, I'm sure, wondering what on earth was the creature on the bench doing chowing down on a fall/winter evening next to Prague's premiere concert hall. Well, of course, I was eating dinner on the run. It happens to be a family trait I picked up in grade school :)
To make this long story shorter... I finished my meal and found my way to the orchestra section where I realized I had a bird's eye view of the conductor, Zdenek Macal, and the Philharmonic. Not only did I have an amazing perspective looking down on the musicians, but I also could look out on the audience and was able to capture the emotion on multiple occasions on their faces. I remember one elderly lady patting her eyes dry with a tissue. Despite the back pain I suffered not having a seat back (it was sort of the equivalent of bleacher seats in Oriole Park at Camden Yards), I was entirely enthralled by being so close to the music, caught up in the conductor's graceful moves, and passionate expression.
And, to think I almost went to the movies! The Rudolfinum is probably my favorite place in Prague; an intimate concert hall where music flows so naturally and beautifully, grasping the heart and soul of its visitors.
Thursday, December 07, 2006
Litvinenko
My bet is on the Kremlin, but possibly an oligarch or mafia clan (Litvinenko had many enemies). It’s quite interesting that after promising ‘full cooperation” that Russian authorities have placed many restrictions on the British investigators ability to perform a full-out investigation within Russian borders. The British are not able to take the lead, but must have Russian officials conduct interviews of potential suspects and/or witnesses. What’s more, the Russian Prosecutor-General Yury Chaika announced that any Russian citizen implicated in the murder case will be tried in Russia, not in Britain. He went on to say that there will be no extraditions, and then added a few words about Britain’s failure to turn over the self-exiled Russian oligarch/businessman Boris Berezovsky and Chechen separatist envoy Akhmed Zakayev. The Russians want these men badly, but the Brits have refused. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
Despite the bad press Russia is getting, perhaps this is exactly the type of bargaining chip for which it has been looking…. And, perhaps the Kremlin is so self-confident that they could care less if half the world thinks they are actively silencing and takin gout dissident voices, basically anyone perceived to be a threat or doesn’t tow the Kremlin’s line. Don’t forget about Viktor Yuschenko, the President of Ukraine who nearly died of dioxin poisoning and has a permanently disfigured face.
One more interesting note… from what I’ve heard translated from Russian news one of the theories being touted within Russia is that Litvinenko was a rogue, trying to prepare some sort of dirty bomb, which he planned to explode, but in the process it backfired and killed Litvinenko himself. I have to wonder what other messages are being carried along those airwaves and TV. But, I really don’t want to become yet another person with a last name ending in “KO” to reach a very unfortunate end so I’ll stop there.
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
Pirohy recipe
Returning to my favorite topic, Slovakia.... I happened to check my email and found this lovely, translated recipe from my relative Pavol and his mom. We have quite the recipe exchange going... he and his mom now want my chocolate chip cookie recipe!
Anyway, Grandma, Aunt Pat, Mom, this one is for you :)
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Pirohy
The first step of this recipe is to prepare the pastry from which we create the pirohy. Put on a moulding-board ½ kilogram of half- whole-flour (polohruba).
Add 1 egg , 1 soup spoon of mashed (sieved ) boiled potatoes , a pinch of salt (Mom uses a half coffee spoon) and water (at need) into the midlle.
Mix all of this to form the pastry. The pastry should be neither tough nor soft so we can roll it adequately.
Then roll the pastry out until the textures is about 3 millimeters thick.
Once we have done the rolling, take a cup or a glass and cut out circles from the pastry.
After creating the circles, we fill them with the filling.
Once we have filled a circle of pastry with the filling, we close the circle creating a crescent moon shape. We then close up the edges.
So now the pirohy are ready to be placed into a pot of boiling water. We put them into the boiling water and mix them occasionally. We have to be very careful when we are mixing them that we don't break them. And when do we know that they have been cooked? It is easy, when they float to the top we know they are ready to come back out again.
Once the pirohy are back out of the water, they are ready to be served. They taste best when they are gravied with hot melted butter and at the end ,flavoured with a pinch o salt.
The filling - circa 1 soup plate volume:
½ soup plate of curd (cottage cheese)
½ soup plate of mashed boiled potatoes (of course flavoured with salt)
1 yolk
circa 10 grams (1 pocket) of vanilla sugar plus normal sugar (by taste, if you prefer sweeter filling). Mix all of this together.
DOBRU CHUT !
Time flies when you're having fun...
And, of course, there are certain promises made which I have yet to make good on. I still intend on writing a few pieces on family, tracing roots, and time (how we are slaves to it, my frustrations with people’s busy schedules here).
But, turning to the moment at hand, I find myself blogging on a dark, rainy night. I actually spent an hour after work visiting the Christmas Market at Namesti Miru (Peace Square) and then being persuaded to get Thai food at this place called “Tiger, Tiger”. I have to say, “Tiger, Tiger” serves up some mighty tasty pad thai kung (w/shrimp)! Of course, you sort of pay American prices, but it’s worth it! By the way, if I can take a moment to complain, the dollar continues to lose value against the Czech crown. When I first came 1USD bought about 22.5 Kc. Currently 1USD buys about 20.9 Kc. And, back when I was here in 1997, my dollar got me about 32-36 Kc. How times have changed!
Life has been full here. On the one hand, I absolutely can’t wait to land in the little dinky airport of Binghamton, NY and to find myself cozy in my family’s home, preparing to celebrate Christmas. But, on the other hand, here I am, actually feeling pretty settled, building friendships, and not so ready to pick up and leave. I guess part of me, the realist that is, is worried about the reality of continuing my new friendships at a distance. I know how I tend to get busy and although I really care about people, I often fail to write or call. I’m thinking though that this blog might come in handy. :)
It’s been quite an interesting time here in Prague this time around. At first I had a hard time looking at the city without thinking of the people that made it so special for me in the first place, and realizing they were no longer here (including, a rather dashing Viennese boyfriend). But, with time and persistence, God has proven himself ever faithful in blessing me with yet new friends, dear friends from Prague, Hungary, Indonesia, South Africa, Australia, and a few other places. And, least I forget, I even have a few new distant family members in Slovakia. Little did I think that Slovakia would have such a impact on me, but it has.
This past Sunday there was an international bazaar put on by the Women’s Diplomatic Association, and I happened to stop by the Slovakia table. Well, I made a purchase (can’t release details at this point), and the sales guy threw in a T-shirt, which I only realized once I got home read in Slovak: “Slovakia, little big country.” Now, some of my Korean American friends (Mark Kim) might be laughing, but that logo sounds absolutely perfect to me. Indeed, in a sense it sums up some of my feelings about the struggle in my heart between the city and the country. I have to say, I’m at heart a country girl, who is drawn to city life, but can’t fully pull herself away from the country. A mix of both is essential for me.
Learning about Slovakia in an academic sense, you read a lot about how Slovakia was in many ways behind the Czech Republic, which was a center of industry even prior to WWII. In fact, the Nazis exploited this fact and relied heavily upon Czech factories for supplies during the war. This long running industrial tradition definitely helped the nation economically. When the two countries peacefully separated, Slovaks chose this route mainly because they did not want to undergo the harsh economic reforms that Czech leaders forecasted were necessary.
In the sports’ arena, I also understand that the Slovaks have a bit of an inferiority complex. (My brother is all over this point.) Although the Slovaks field a mighty talented national ice hockey team, for some reason, they always fail to beat the Czechs. Can you imagine? Today both countries are undergoing strange political times. The Czech Republic doesn’t really have a functioning government, and this situation has been ongoing since the elections earlier this spring. Slovakia, for its part, is in the midst of a populist backlash. Yes, they are recent (2004) entrants to the European Union, but they still have a ways to go in terms of building strong state institutions, developing responsible leaders, and rooting out corruption. I say all this as a backdrop to my emotional attachment to this “little, big country”, with which I have an ancestral connection. Warm people and snowy mountain tops go along way in winning one over. :)
What else? This past weekend I got to meet a pretty neat young college student from Azerbaijan. Nazila was so impressed I knew her country’s capital, Baku, that she decided she needed to find out what more I knew. Hahaha. So, our conversation stretched from Baku to media crackdowns to Russia to Anna Politskaya to the Litvinenko poisoning to the Masons (Of course, all in logical succession). :) Oh, I almost forgot, but we also touched upon some more sensitive subjects such as Armenia and the Jewish diaspora in Azerbaijan. When I broached the topic of Armenia, I think the response was, "Well, we don't like them." My experience in the Balkans and in interacting with people from the Caucasus has taught me the fine art of walking on egg shells.
But back to a topic we both were very excited about, Nazila and I are teaming up in a quest to figure out the real meaning of free masonry, what they do, what all the secrecy is about... :) I think it’s pretty cool that I now have an Azeri partner-in-crime in this little endeavor. Nazila happens to be in Prague as a student on scholarship, studying economics in Czech. Yes, the Czech government gives out a certain number of scholarships to foreign students, brings them here and teaches them Czech, tests them in the subject matter in Czech, and then grants them a spot at a uni if they pass with high marks. Did I mention they only learn Czech for 6-8 months before applying for a university spot? To me, it’s all madness! I can’t imagine, but I’m awfully impressed by these young students to say the very least.
I think that’s all for now folks. Raymond, I hope you’re happy! I’ve got pictures a plenty, but unfortunately too little time. I’ll see what I can do. I’ve got some great shots of sheep and the hillsides of northern England :)
Thursday, November 23, 2006
Happy Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving! I'm heading to bed soon, but thought I'd write from location in Hampswaite, England (Yorkshire). I hopped on a Jet2.com plane earlier this afternoon and made my way to Leeds where my good friend from Penn, Leah, met me. We had a lovely dinner: roast duck, rice pilaf, and sweet potatoes, topped off with pumpkin mousse. But, more than the food, it was simply wonderful to reconnect with this friend who has been with me since university days. Leah was randomly (or unrandomly :)) assigned to me as my roommate and she has been like a sister ever since.
Northern England is really quaint. I don't think I've ever seen so many stone cottages. The weather is a challenge that's for sure. It get's dark around 4:30 at present and the wind at night howls something fierce, which is why I'm probably up and online! I'm very happy to be here though.... And, I really hope Leah and I will be able to take a walk/hike in the countryside one of the days I'm here. She claims that having nature and the countryside at her doorstep is one of the best things about living here. I'll let you know what I find out!
But, back to Thanksgiving musings... it has been a special week. Not only did I get to celebrate with Leah today, but at work we had a special Thanksgiving meal with all the festive trappings, and even had a special word from the Ambassador and our Director of Broadcasting. Sitting in a room probably only half full of Americans and the rest representing countries as far away as Afghanistan, Iran, Kazakhstan, Bosnia, and other lands, it was a really neat feeling to introduce and share this day with colleagues. Breaking bread with people from all parts of the world is definitely pretty nifty.
Miss you all very much. There's something about the holiday season that makes me crave home. Funny, but I can't wait to get into my mother's kitchen with my sisters to bake until our hearts are content and we've exhausted the sugar supply :) That will come.
Before I sign off... I just want to say I'm so glad and very blessed to have such a loving family and amazing group of friends such as yourselves :) Yes, pat yourself on the back :) I send a great, big cyber hug to you all.
Monday, November 20, 2006
On the Road Again...
Wednesday, November 08, 2006
Vysne Repase
Monday, November 06, 2006
Exploring Radio
October 17-19, I participated in a workshop titled “Exploring Radio”, a basic course in radio journalism for non-broadcasters. After discussing the fundamentals of radio, my class was given the practical assignment of putting together a 25-minute program. The various elements in the program included: station identification and promos, a news billboard, 3 features with 2 audio clips each, one main interview, and music. Somehow I was assigned the role of Senior Editor and also was responsible for our musical selection. How long did we get to put this 25-minute piece together? Well, we received our assignment at about 12 or 1 on Wednesday and were to go ‘live’ at 12:00 p.m. on Thursday. When I heard the news I began to sweat bullets. (O.K. not exactly, but pretty darn close. Knowing me, I take all assignments seriously!).
After some initial fears and consternation, I have to say my team pulled it off extremely well. Each person had the opportunity to use his/her creativity and we helped each other out, brainstorming, bouncing ideas off each other, scheduling interviews, writing, and editing. The main theme of the 25-minute program was “Prague Autumn” which included a main report on RFE/RL's relocation and groundbreaking ceremony and short segments on Halloween, fall traditions in the U.S. and Czech Republic, and the flu season and influenza shots. We also had news highlights in Russian. Why Russian? Our newscaster was Belarusian and came to me pleading not to read the news in English as she sounded atrocious. I didn’t quite think she sounded so badly, but I respected her wishes and language preference. And, it was the right choice. The Russian simply flowed from Katka’s lips; she sounded very professional, taking brief pauses between highlights.
As for me, I didn’t create one specific piece myself, but had editorial control on each piece and helped with one Czech-English voice over. I wish the file wasn’t so large and you could all hear our program, but I guess you’ll have to wait for the audio CD when I return! If you allow me a little bragging room, I dare say NPR’s Morning Edition should watch out!
Tuesday, October 31, 2006
Sound of Music Gazebo
Here I am with my friend Fal (visiting from Hoboken) at the famous glass gazebo where Rolf and Liesl professed their affection for each other. This gazebo became so popular with fans that they rebuilt it, residing permanently in the gardens of Hellbrunn Castle.
If you'd like to see more pictures of Salzburg and the vicinity, I've uploaded a bunch more on flickr.com. Please see: http://www.flickr.com/photos/73459909@N00/
Salzkammergut
Colors of Autumn
Leopoldskron Castle
The morning started out with fog and slight rain. Austrians like to say, similar to the British, "we don't have a climate, we just have weather."
Monday, October 30, 2006
Do, a deer, a female deer ... Re, a drop of golden sun...
Salzburg is world renown for the local boy, musical genius, Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, and, thanks to Hollywood and Rodgers and Hammerstein, the Trapp family. According to our guide, more visitors come to this famous Austrian city of 185,000 to catch the Sound of Music tour than to celebrate Mozart, but there are still many, many people that come to hear Mozart. One of the first things Fal and I did was visit Mozart’s birthplace and home. The third-floor apartment dwelling included his actual viola and harpsichord as well as many other personal items of the boy wonder. Each room in the house contained a different theme, and of course, different operas or compositions provided constant background music. The wunderkind wrote his first composition at age five and taught himself violin and the organ by age seven. I learned quite a bit about how his father Leopold took him on tour as a child, about his troubled relationship with the Archbishops and the court, how he eventually struck out on his own, and fun things like how to best powder one’s wig.
Saturday morning I got up bright and early for a traditional Austrian breakfast. Imagine if you will a fresh selection of breads, rolls, cheeses, yogurts, fruit, and deli-sliced meats. Lecker schmecker! Soon we were off to Salzkammergut to view Austria’s lake district, where the opening shots of Sound of Music were filmed. Words can’t do justice to the Austrian landscape: the green hills and mountains, the alpine waters, wooden-tiered houses, sheep and cattle … it is really something one would find only in a fairytale. From what I understand, the crew of Sound of Music did not exactly experience ‘fairytale’ conditions when they came to Austria to film. What they thought would take 6 weeks in reality took 6 months because of bad weather. In the middle of August, poor Julie Andrews was taken in a box-cart up Mountain Untersberg in a fur coat to guard her against the harsh cold and chilly winds. We, however, had a lovely day once the morning rain passed. There is nothing quite like the clean air and verdant mountains of Austria, its flowing beer taps, crisp white wines, schnitzels, apple and cheese strudels in custard, and the Austrians themselves. In all honesty, I was sad to leave Salzburg. I hope I'll find future opportunities (many future opportunities) to return!
Saturday, October 21, 2006
Dilapidated building on Prespostska I street near Bratislava Castle
Trnava Synagogue - Now Art Gallery...
I was a bit shocked by the poor condition of the synagogue. Of course, I've read about many of the old synagogues of Central Europe either totally destroyed or used to house equipment during Communism. This building from what I understand was almost totally lost because of water damage and lack of repair. However, some bit of money must have been invested to keep it afloat.
Not only was the poor condition of the synagogue kind of startling, but I was also a bit shocked by some of the museum's explanations regarding the few Jewish artifacts it had on display. Namely, when you entered the museum there was a plaque noting that several Jews were accused of 'blood libel' and summarily killed. Blood libel is a charge dating back to the middle ages alleging that Jews kidnapped Christian children and used their blood for rituals. Having studied Jewish history in Central Europe as well as anti-semitism through the ages, I have read about this accusation, but somehow this mention on the plaque hit closer to home. My good friend Hanka, a Slovak, has shared that anti-semitism was very ripe in Slovakia. Sometimes coming face to face with history is an unpleasant, uncomfortable encounter.
Novy Most - "New Bridge" in Bratislava
'model' socialist development. Saturday was very hazy, but you should be able to make out the blok after blok of apartments.
Friday, October 20, 2006
Part Two- Yet another piece to the puzzle…
Sunday morning I woke up to a “Valent” breakfast: yogurt, an array of breads, a choco-croissant (how did you know!), and Nescafe coffee. Valent’s wife, Dagmara, is in London for 2 months, helping out her daughter and son-in-law with their young son, Sebastian. According to Valent, this is the first time in 28 years of marriage he is without his wife, but to his credit he seemed to be managing quite well. After a few pictures in his backyard poolside, we made our way using GPS to his nephew’s apartment in Trnava, what Slovak’s like to call “little Rome.” Valent has quite a keen, dry sense of humor, but his reliance on GPS for navigation really was the icing on the cake for me.
Some interesting facts I found out about Valent: he was born and grew up in Vysne Repase, a village in the Spis region of Slovakia just south of the high Tatry. The village dates back to at least the 14th century. A historical pamphlet put together for the 650th anniversary of the village named 60 families that were native to the village around the time of Maria Theresa (1740s): the Fecko family was among these 60. Don’t ask me or my cousins about the change in spelling… One guess is that Fetzko is the ‘Hungarianized’ or “Anglicized” version my grandfather inherited. Who knows?! And how are Valent and Pavol Gura related? They are the descendents of my great-grandfather’s and great-grandmother’s siblings.
Back to Valent, his major at university was the science of “keeping trains from crashing into each other”… seriously, I think that’s what he called it. In other words, he has an engineering background, but also went on to study computer science. All this eventually led to jobs with Andersen Consulting and most recently Hewlett Packard. For HP, he has really traveled the world: Europe, the Middle East, Africa, and Asia. Besides his daughter in London, he has a second daughter Datka, who lives at home and works at the Bratislava paper, Sme. Oh, and least I forget, they have a 30-year turtle Sissina (sp?).
After one mishap with the GPS system (it failed temporarily), we finally arrived in Trnava at Pavol’s, Valent’s nephew. Pavol is very close in age to me, is married to Mirka, and has a little daughter Sara. He and his wife had purchased their flat about 2 years ago and are gradually finishing renovations. Despite the fact it was situated in a typical socialist block of flats, their apartment was very bright and nicely remodeled. They explained that purchasing an apartment is a big ordeal, and land or a house even more so.
Pavol, Mirka, and Sara - Trnava, Slovakia
Back in the apartment I also browsed through the CD collection and came across many groups I personally like. It turns out Pavol is also a big fan of old Jazz greats, Billie Holiday, Ella Fitgerald, Louis Armstrong, and Edith Piaf as well as Pearl Jam. (I actually saw Pearl Jam here in Prague in September). It was very neat to find these interesting similarities in tastes.
My visit with Pavol also provided an avid Eastern European history buff like me the opportunity to hear about life during communism and the personal experience of his family. Pavol told me how some of his sisters were denied entrance at university because they indicated belief in God on entrance applications. On the other hand, sometimes the powers that be awarded the sons and daughters of villagers a place at university because of their work as farmers and workers of the state. Pavol is part of the last generation that really remembers what life was like during communism. He also remembers the visits of my great cousin Albert Fecko who visited Slovakia over the years starting in the late 1970s. It was very apparent speaking to Pavol and Valent that they have a profound attachment to their beloved village Vysne Repase. In fact, Valent’s laptop opens to a picture he took in November 2005 of the village. Pavol simply beams when he talks about the mountain views. “It’s very different, very special there, you know, Christine,” he said.
And, I somehow know exactly what he means. For sure, Vysne Repase has a large list of troubles: the village numbers about 100 inhabitants, 2/3 of which are widowers. There is no industry save for subsistence farming (as far as I can tell). According to Pavol, alcoholism is a problem in many Slovak villages and men have been known to freeze to death after passing out. Despite these problems and the harsh nature of life in Vysne Repase, there is beautify found in the truth of this human experience.
How the World Turns
Pavol has already given his mother a full report about my visit and my mention of different foods we still prepare in the United States. I was so surprised when I rattled off our typical Christmas Eve meal and he didn’t wince an eye. In fact, he knew exactly what I was talking about when I mentioned my grandmother’s special cabbage soup “machanka”. No one, not even friends of Slovak descent in the States, has ever recognized that name. I went on to tell him about my grandmother’s practice of preparing paska at Christmas and Easter, and how she would bake each grandchild his/her own paska (a round, white bread with raisins) at Easter every year. He knew paska as well and was quite surprised himself at my description since his own wife wasn’t entirely familiar with all of the dishes prepared in his family. So, I understand Pavol’s mom is going to prepare me some pirohy (pierogi) and maybe a few other surprises. I really can’t wait. The Czechs don’t do pirohy and I couldn’t seem to find them on a menu in Bratislava so perhaps it’s a food coming from northeastern part of Slovakia, close to the border with Poland.
After spending most of Sunday with Pavol, Mirka, and little Sara, Pavol drove me back to Bratislava and accompanied me to my traveler’s hostel. Before departing he gave me an absolutely fantastic photography book, How the World Turns, with pictures of life and specific individuals in a small village in eastern Slovakia. The pictures are deeply moving, filled with emotion, each telling a story and bringing you so close you could touch the human spirit. I have to say… it might just be one of the very best gifts I’ve ever received. As I began to flip through the pages of pictures, tears welled up in my eyes: making this trip, tracing family roots, connecting with distant relatives, learning about the past … this was a longtime desire of my heart. I can only say thank you Lord for making this possible! What a beautiful journey it has been...
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
PART ONE - Arrival in Bratislava
Family and friends,
This past weekend was a bit like finding a missing piece to the puzzle…I arrived in Bratislava on Saturday morning without a problem. It was smooth sailing! The weekend weather could not have been better, well, perhaps a few degrees warmer on Sunday and Monday, but I shouldn’t complain; I was able to walk around most of Saturday without a coat. The seemingly strong rays of the sun on my skin never felt better.
Bratislava’s main rail station is not so great, but it wasn’t nearly as overwhelming to the senses as Kyiv’s Borispol airport. Of course, once outside I saw several Roma gypsies, which is a common sight throughout most of Eastern Europe, and Slovakia, in particular. But, in contrast to past trips to Poland where Roma and drunken beggars come right up to you, people let me go my merry way.
Without much ado, I made my way down Stefanikova ulica and happened into the Presidential gardens. Yes, I just happened to peer in and noticed what seemed to be a park and walked in to enjoy the view and different modern art sculptures. After a few pictures of the changing colors of the leaves, it was on to the historical district. In just a few minutes I was in the vicinity of St. Michael’s gate and took a picture for a gentlemanly group of guys from New Zealand. How pleasant not to run into a band of stag party Londoners!
Bratislava has a compact, but lovely old town. It’s definitely not on the scale of Prague, but I found my visit really refreshing. I left behind the hoards of tourists in Prague and really felt like I had a city at my fingertips to explore. Bratislava has a number of churches, historic squares (e.g., hlavni namesti – “main square”), Bratislava castle, galleries, and museums that are worth a visit. On the advice of my travel bible (Lonely Planet), I decided to spend my afternoon taking in views of the castle and its various museums. From castle top, I had a terrific view of the Communists' flagship building project, Novy Most (“New Bridge”), which required the bulldozing of the former Jewish quarter. Across the Danube on the other side of the bridge is another ‘gift’ from the Commies: a model communist city called “Petrzalka”, which is comprised of one tall, sterile, ugly block of socialist flats after another. I understand this might be hard to imagine for those of you who have never visited a former Eastern Bloc country, but let me assure you: save for our inner city projects, we are really very blessed in the States.
Highlights of my afternoon included learning more about the Austro-Hungarian empire, including its military weaknesses, frequent insurrections, and use of “heyduck”, hired fighters from the Balkans. The music museum had a small exhibit on the Albrecht family, chamber music (i.e., how middleclass families in the 1700 and 1800s enjoyed communal music; how spontaneous playing occurred frequently, which sparked conversation, commentary, and further musical exploration), a section on hymns, including liturgical hymns in Slovak, which were early fruit of Slovak national consciousness.
At 5 p.m. was the moment I’d been waiting years for… to meet a distant relative … anyone hailing from the Fecko clan in Slovakia. After a little confusion, Valent found me, the lady in a pink coat waiting on the corner of Zidowska ulica (“Jewish Street”). As my eyes moved up from the pages of my guide book, I was overjoyed to see none other than a familiar pair of eyes, nose, and cheeks. I had to catch myself, but I really felt like I saw my grandfather in Valent, even some of my dad. Later that night we looked at old pictures from Vysne Repase, the village where the Fecko and Parana families come from. I showed Valent a picture of my dad and he immediately saw Fecko and Parana features. He then proceeded to show me pictures of his uncles, Mihal and Jan, with whom he thought my dad shared some common features.
Of course, there’s more to the story, including pictures… hope you’ll tune in for Part Two…
Friday, October 13, 2006
Off to Bratislava on a Quest..
And, after several long weeks at work, I've finally submitted several drafts for a big project I've been working on. What a feeling! I admit work has been pretty consuming of late so I'm looking forward to a change of pace. It is much needed. I think I'm also due for some adventure.
Next week when I return to work I'm scheduled to take a course called, "Exploring Radio". Essentially, it is a course on broadcasting for non-broadcasters. This will hopefully spur my creative juices and provide me the opportunity to put together my own radio program (well, of course with the help of our trainers and other class participants :)). Can't wait! Yes, I know I'm a bit nerdy at times, but I can't help it.
Well, what in the world is everyone up to these days? I have failed miserably in developing interactivity on this blog. Please don't be shy!
Friday, October 06, 2006
Tracing Family Roots
I'll keep you posted on this trip or what other possibilities might arise. My friend Becky who I met at church in Hoboken is a flight attendant and we've made a practice the last few years of meeting up in random places. Last summer it was the Tirana Rinas Airport at midnight (in Albania). I kid you not!
If you have time to gallavant over here in Central Europe with me let me know. Unfortunately my good friend Leah has already tried out the cheesy Sound of Music tour in Salzburg without me earlier this year. :( I still want to see Austria though and its many Christmas markets. Let me know!
Wednesday, October 04, 2006
A Great, Big, Fat Czech Wedding...
UNESCO-protected Trinity Column in Olomouc
Hanging Around the Monastery Gardens in Litomsyl
Litomysl Renaissance Castle Courtyard Facade
Late September Travels: Olomouc and Litomysl in Moravia
As some of your know Prague lies in the Czech land of Bohemia. At the end of last week my friend Imelda and I decided to head out of town to visit a couple of small towns in the other part of the Czech Republic: Moravia. We visited Olomouc, which has many famous "seconds" after Prague and Litomysl, home to an exquisitely beautiful Renaissance castle. This happens to be a picture of the Renaissance castle which we toured.
Monday, October 02, 2006
Home sweet home! Hotel Ukraine
Onion Domes Galore
St. Sofia's Cathedral of Kyiv
You might think ... not that impressive... well, the inside is very neat, but you can't take pictures! I still tend to think the St. Basil's in Moscow is more interesting, but I really enjoyed the fresco paintings in the upper levels.
Sunday, September 24, 2006
A trip on the wild side...
After entering the airport and being greeted by questionable taxi drivers that were out to make a big buck, I wasn’t quite what to expect. We actually decided upon taking an ‘unofficial’ taxi. Well, I should say it was an unmarked car with tinted windows, but the price was right (20 USD). Not often do I follow a guy who says quietly behind my back, “lady, follow me”, but together with Beth, we somehow decided to follow and take this driver up on his offer to take us to Hotel Ukraine. Outside the airport doors, I realized the adventure was only beginning. To the right of the entrance/exit stood a group of Hasidic Jews who had arrived to celebrate Jewish New Year at the grave of their spiritual leader, Rabbi Nachman of Bratslav. We passed this group of men with long curls and dressed in black with top hats and made our way to the car. Our driver seemed to take after the famous German Formula One star, Michael Schumacher. For some reason, we were the fastest car on the road. Funny how that works sometimes! He also had figured out some unorthodox ways of getting to downtown Kyiv. This caused my colleague Beth some consternation, but I somehow sat back and let the driver do his driving. We were in Ukraine, and this was pretty much the Wild West for us.
Our drive to the city center took us through a ‘suburb’ or two (if you can call it that). We passed row after row of ugly socialist apartment blocks, pretty similar to what I first saw in Wroclaw, Poland when I was an exchange student in 1993, but these blocks seemed even more immense and went on forever. Seeing these blocks, feeling pretty depressed at the sight, I became very, very grateful for the blessing of my family home, backyard, and woods. Also, looking out the car window, I noticed old cars pulling crates filled with potatoes on the back. The differences between the capital city and the rural outlying districts seemed pretty stark to say the least.
On the whole, I was very impressed by the quality of Kyiv’s infrastructure. The city had highways free of potholes and we were able to get to the city in relative ease. Once at our hotel, a grand monument of former Soviet hotels perched on a hill above Maidan Independence Square where protesters in October 2004 created a ‘tent city’ in support of Victor Yuschenko, the now President of Ukraine, we were greeted by a HUGE outdoor concert. There were literally thousands of people running around with alcoholic beverages and dancing the night away. The site was admittedly overwhelming, but we soon warmed up to the party environment and enjoyed a few pop performances before taking a stroll. One of the highlights of Sunday night was seeing the 2004 Eurovision winner Ruslana perform her hit, “Wild Dances”. I’d say she’s pretty much the Ukrainian version of Shakira.
Ukraine was really quite a fascinating place. On the one hand, there were beautiful people (especially long-legged, blond-haired women) out and about in 60s retro fashion, a lot of fancy cafes and high end shopping, but on the other hand, there were many elderly women selling their humble wares on random street corners. Of course, there were also security guards at every establishment, whether at a restaurant, cafeteria, café, hotel, or store. There was always a man in a suit paying attention to whatever was happening. And, there were seemingly hundreds of men parked in cars with tinted windows on sidewalks, waiting for Ukrainian businessmen and politicians to finish their business.
Our hotel was quite an experience in itself. Get this: on every floor stood a desk with a woman who controlled room keys. Supposedly, back in the day this function was performed by the KGB. In addition to controlling access to guest rooms, these individuals also helped procure women for party officials and the like. (This is according to my Hungarian colleague). In my opinion there was absolutely no need for this job; can’t you pick up your key at the main desk when you check in? But, a job is important that is for sure. Probably one of the most disturbing sites was the presence of prostitutes in our hotel lobby every night. It seemed to be accepted practice. We also had police in the lobby keeping watch. The women simply sat on the lobby couches, drinking vodka and waiting to be approached. It was eye-opening for sure.
In these short two plus days, I only scratched the surface of Kyiv. If at all possible, I’d definitely like to go back and do some further exploration. In terms of tourist sites, we only got to visit the Sofia of Kyiv, a large church and monastery modeled after Istanbul’s Sofia, the outside of the Kyiv Dynamo Soccer Stadium (where the famous player Shevchenko started out), and had a look at the colossal Monument to the Motherland commemorating WW II (a woman probably twice the size of our Statue of Liberty – at least that’s the feeling she gave me; she could have been even larger if you can imagine) from our taxi window on our drive to the airport upon leaving. So, if anyone wants to join me for a Ukrainian adventure let me know. There’s always Odessa and boats rides to be had, too!
Saturday, September 23, 2006
Maidan Square (Independence Square) in Kyiv, Ukraine
Thursday, September 21, 2006
Jordana's Visit to Prague
It was a very sweet, but much too fast visit. During these 4 or so days together, we saw the Barber of Seville as well as a rather risque Black Light Theatre, which is very interpretive, but without the use of language. I have to say that Walt Disney, Epcot Center, and Warner Brothers have heavily influenced the way I experience new places in Europe and cultural events. So you know what I mean… I REALLY enjoyed the Opera, especially since I knew the music and it was a comedy. But, the reason I know the Barber of Seville is because I first came to know the Rabbit of Seville, which happens to go down as one of my all-time favorite cartoons. I admit that the opening sequence of the Opera I was thinking of Bugs Bunny and Elmer Fud. I really had to get a hold of myself, which I eventually did, but I enjoyed my finger tapping and memories of Bugs dressed up as a bride and Bugs massaging Elmer Fud’s bald head.
You can really tire yourself out walking around Prague. Jordana and I are living proof. I had hopes of taking a day trip on Saturday out of town, but on Friday night we realized we were completely exhausted from trapsing around town in the cool weather. So, we did what I love most on Saturday morning… we ate brunch at this place called Radost, which has some of the best breakfast food I have ever had. While a lot of food here in Prague is just mediocre (Remember I speak as someone who lived in New York City and Philadelphia), Radost brunch is phenomenal. With Jordana I had the “Greek God” omelet, which was filled with feta cheese, tomatoes, spinach, mushrooms, and sourcream and was served with a piece of whole grain bread. On a separate visit I had a huge pair of waffles with loads of fresh fruit (pineapple, blueberries, grapes), topped with blueberry sauce and whipped cream. Oh, and the coffee is deep, full bodied, and rich. Can you tell I like breakfast?
Of course, Sunday was a sad occasion when I had to say goodbye to Jordana. It was so good to have a roommate again and to have the opportunity to learn even more about Filipinos and how she has distant relatives basically everywhere. :)
Friday, September 15, 2006
"So, is like life in America as crazy as it is in HBO's 'BIG LOVE'?" - Just one question I got lobbed from a Brit
Actually, dwelling a bit further on TV, I happened to surf through the channels on Monday after I returned from attending a solemn but hopeful "Missa Ecumenica" a musical and audio-visual commemoration of September 11 and victims of terrorism at the famous Municipal House's Smetana Concert Hall... What I found on the national Czech 2 station rather disturbed me. They were broadcasting Michael Moore's Fahrenheit 9/11. The timing of the film on national Czech television was totally out of place in my opinion. I don't consider myself a fanatical person; I'm willing to listen to an argument and consider it for what it's worth, but I found running this movie with its very clear agenda distasteful and wrong on the fifth anniversary of this tragic event. Show the movie some other week, but not on September 11th!
A few weeks ago I also happened to turn the TV on while doing the dishes and came upon a HORRIBLE American movie, Jay and Silent Bob Strike Back, or something of the like. The movie was shown in the original language, which was mostly curse words. I bring this up because I'm very concerned about America's image abroad, and I have to tell you this type of American cultural export definitely doesn't help. Since I've been here I've had numerous inquiries about different films and HBO series, whether or not life in the United States is like it is portrayed on TV or the screen. I'm so glad I have the opportunity to allow people to get to know an American that does not hale from the zipcode 90210. These simple interactions go to show me the great value and need for cultural exchange programs and an engaging public diplomacy.
If you are interested in the topic of U.S. public diplomacy, I urge you to take a look at a very thought provoking piece, "Now Showing the Good, the Bad, and the Ugly Americans: Exporting the Wrong Picture" by Martha Bayles in the August 28, 2005 The Washington Post. Ms. Bayles is currently writing a book on U.S. public diplomacy. In her Post piece, Ms. Bayles definitely raises many concerning points:
"American popular culture is no longer a beacon of freedom to huddled masses in closed societies. Instead, it's a glut on the market and, absent any countervailing cultural diplomacy, our de facto ambassador to the world. The solution to this problem is far from clear. Censorship is not the answer, because even if it were technologically possible to censor our cultural exports, it would not be politic. The United States must affirm the crucial importance of free speech in a world that has serious doubts about it, and the best way to do this is to show that freedom is self-correcting -- that Americans have not only liberty but also a civilization worthy of liberty." (Bayles, Sunday, August 28, 2005; Page B01, The Washington Post)
To see the entire article, go to: www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2005/08/27/AR2005082700034.html
Just some food for thought! And, yes, my effort to make you all informed citizens!
Well, I'm off to Kyiv on Sunday afternoon for short business trip. I look forward to updating you my trip further east!
Best, Christine
Monday, September 11, 2006
Remembering September 11
I am not speaking as someone who directly knew or lost a loved one in the World Trade Center that awful day. But, I do speak as someone who was there; someone who saw the fiery hole after the first Tower was hit; someone who shook with fear and anger in the days that followed. For me September 11 is a stark reminder of the very real presence of evil in this world, of the fragility of life, that we should take no day for granted. And, it is a lesson of sustaining faith and hope in the midst of tragedy, disaster, and injustice.
There’s so much to say about that day. Part of me deep down somehow believes that if I could only recreate this day in perfect detail, as if I were God, I could return this world to life as I previously knew it. And maybe that is why it has taken me so long to mark that day in words, because I know that once I do put the last word to paper, those men and women who lost someone in the Towers or the planes will go on missing their husbands, fathers, mothers, daughters, sons, brothers, sisters, wives, significant other, friends, and loved ones, and we will still turn on the news every morning to yet another story of suicide bombings.
What I stared in the face on September 11, 2001 was evil, plain and simple. But what was reinforced after this horrendous course of events was the exact opposite: love, hope, and a heavenly longing for a place where there will be no more tears, no more death and no more decay.
I miss New York every September. My heart aches as I think of friends. I remember the look on their faces, how we tried to encourage and support each other every step of the way. I remember the surreal feeling of downtown Manhattan. I remember reconnecting (after 8 years) with my old friend from high school Dan Burchill on a street corner in the high 20s on my walk north. I remember taking a ferry with Jackie later that day, bypassing a line of hundreds of people, and being hosed down by firemen and EMTs in Hoboken upon our arrival. I remember hug upon hug after we finally returned to work. I remember the warm embrace of the maintenance man from El Salvador. I remember meeting a young woman from Cantor Fitzgerald who called in sick to work that day (her offices were on the top floors); one of maybe two team members alive, she was searching for answers, struggling to make sense of her life. I remember and I hope.
From time to time I still wonder why I was there, up close. Why I saw the things I did. It has been five whole years since that day and we can’t turn back the clock. At times I am so very angry. There will be more Towers to fall in my life, in our lives. And, that is why I endeavor to set my mind and heart on what is eternal, that which will never perish or give way. This is the enduring lesson of September 11th.
Saturday, September 02, 2006
Clouds over Prague - This was My August
Friends, Family, and Esteemed Guests,
Ever gradually I have begun to create a photo gallery of some of my favorites at flickr.com. If you're curious, please drop by:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/73459909@N00/
Enjoy! Christine