Monday, July 31, 2006

Vitam vas v Praze! Welcome to Prague!


Christine and Fred
Originally uploaded by cfetzko.

Okay - So, here's a smattering of different photos for all of you who have been pestering me. Of course, there are more but remember the old addage, "good things come to those who wait!"

Hope you enjoy the photos!

TV Tower in Prague


TV Tower in Prague
Originally uploaded by cfetzko.

Move over baroque, rococco, and gothic, modern architecture is to be found in Prague, too! Here's the TV tower with little babies crawling :) (For real!)

Socialist Art - Mother and Child


Socialist Art - Mother and Child
Originally uploaded by cfetzko.

An important lesson: Don't look down, but look up. Here's a great little dity of Socialist art... Peasant/Worker Mother and Child ... on the top of an apartment building.

Terezin Ghetto Memorial - Transit/Concentration Camp


Terezin Ghetto Memorial - Transit/Concentration Camp
Originally uploaded by cfetzko.

Typical bunks in concentration camps; this is from Terezin, an hour bus ride from Prague. I've visited several (Auschwitz, Majdanek, Buchenwald). At the beginning of the war there were two to an area, but it quickly grew to 6-8.

Chez Christine


Chez Christine
Originally uploaded by cfetzko.

If you come to visit me... this couch turns into a bed. I'm sure it's comfy :)

View from Vysehrad


View from Vysehrad
Originally uploaded by cfetzko.

On Saturday, Fredi, Yoti (from Greece) and I visited the "other" castle in Prague, Vysehrad, which literally means "high castle". It is the mythic site of the Czech nation. The views from Vysehrad are quite breathtaking. Here you see Prague Castle in the distance and the Vltava river down below.

Jan Hus


Jan Hus
Originally uploaded by cfetzko.

Old Town Square... Jan Hus, the famous Czech reformer who was burned at the stake and in the background the Tyn Church.

Prague Castle


Prague Castle
Originally uploaded by cfetzko.

My first day wandering around Prague I traversed my old path by the concert hall, the Rudolfinum.

A Picture Says a Thousand Words...

If you're interested in more photos, I've uploaded almost everything to Kodakgallery.com:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=vad6lwh.5ggcc5op&x=1&y=jp2nix

You'll need to sign in (I think).

Weekly Round-Up

Two whole weeks have passed since I arrived in Prague. As of my last post Fredi, another American Michael (also on the three-week course), and I decided to go to Terezin, a transit and concentration camp during World War II. Originally a small and larger fortress built in the 1780s by the Hapsburgs as an outpost against possible Prussian incursions, the Nazi’s put the garrison town to use as a transit camp for mainly Austro-Hungarian Jewry who eventually were transported further east to Auschwitz and a few other extermination camps. Of the several hundred thousand transports somewhat over 3000 survived.

We walked around modern-day Terezin on an overcast day with a little rain. It’s really a quiet little place which seems to make its living on a combination of the Terezin Ghetto Memorial and several small businesses, including a Spanish furniture store and some small-scale factories. Our bus driver there was cold and unpleasant and seemed to scoff at those of us paying a visit to Terezin for the sole purpose of visiting the former ghetto. Of course, none of this was explicit, but this is what I sensed from time spent in Poland and discussions of the Holocaust. I think that for Poles especially, and to some extent Czechs, they want you to know that their countrymen also perished in these camps.

This marked my second trip to Terezin. The first was a guided tour from lovely Mr. Hruska (an old Czech-Jewish man who served as a guide in the Jewish quarter of Prague and himself somehow survived the war) along with my good friend Anna from the Education and Cultural Center for the Jewish Museum in Prague and a troop of Dutch Jews visiting Prague and Terezin. It’s an eerie thing to walk around the site of so much evil and destruction. Despite the fact that Terezin was not a “death camp” and that the Nazis even put up a charade for a visiting International Red Cross delegation, there are undeniably echoes of the dark past. Parts of the fortification were left pretty much as is. You are able to wander around the various rooms where prisoners belongings were itemized, clothes were washed, new arrivals showered, and the gate with the ominous phrase “Arbeit Macht Frei” (“Work makes Free”) under which prisoners passed. Words really can’t explain the bizarre feeling of visiting a concentration camp in the midst of a small town that has since moved on.
On Thursday I finally reconnected with my Czech friend Lenka who I have not seen for about 6 years. Lenka and I met in Regensburg, Germany, where we both spent a summer working as au-pairs. Lenka invited me to a friend’s birthday party in an old, old Czech house on the outskirts of Prague. I took the metro, a tram and walked up several steep hills before I finally set eyes on the place. Once I did, however, it was as if I had taken a trip back in time. The house appeared to have predated the Second World War and by most accounts had not changed all that much. Yes, there was a dishwasher, but the house for me was like walking around a historical artifact. Seeing old black and white pictures from the late 1800s or early 1900s topped it off. Perhaps it was the warm reception I received from Lenka’s friends, but I’d like to think the house itself welcomed me with its old world charm.

That night I spent a great deal of effort resurrecting my rusty Czech. God was gracious in helping me to understand a lot more than I could say. Of course, most of those present spoke a high degree of English, but not all and the majority of conversation took place in the native tongue. I learned my lesson of the week from Jirek, the self-proclaimed “Tiger Words”, supposedly an unbeatable Scrabble player with a close relative to Franz Kafka. To sum up, Jirek definitely has a way with words and he prodded me on in my efforts to learn Czech. According to the Czech Tiger, it’s best to start learning Czech now as it will be spoken in heaven one day, but will take an eternity to learn. And that my friends is just one example of the Czech sense of humor and spirit. I have to say I’m looking forward to heaven!

Saturday, July 22, 2006

Mission Accomplished

What a day! I FINALLY slept in. I NEVER sleep in, but after one week of work and arriving last Saturday I was determined to get whatever rest I needed. So, after awaking around 10:30 (a first for me), I made my first pot of coffee using my nifty Italian espresso maker and made a plan for the day. While I thought that sleeping in would mean the day was shot, I am so glad to see that I have nearly accomplished everything on my to do list: go grocery shopping (which included purchasing and eating a tasty little croissant), purchase a mobile phone and SIM card, check out TESCO, and watch "Darwin's Nightmare". How was I able to do this you might wonder? Well, it helps to live in the center of town and to be able to walk to every destination within 15 minutes. This is extraordinary for a girl who grew up in Upstate NY where it took 15 or 20 minutes to DRIVE everywhere. Ahhhh, the joys of Central European living :)

I regret this is a post for the sake of a post, but I still have one more item on my "To Do" list! I must get to the gym before closing so this is it.

For those interested Prague has been hot, but not DC hot and humid. It's quite refreshing to say the least! Cheers! Christine

Excess baggage and all... I'm here!

I am happy to report that I arrived safely and soundly on Saturday (Despite flying on what seemed to be the oldest plane in the United fleet. It was awfully cramped and to top it all off we did not have airconditioning until we were in the air for a few minutes.) Upon arrival in Prague’s airport I was greeted by my new supervisor Beth who helped me with my things (did I mention my 87-lb suitcase?) to my flat. I have a very sweet set up to say the least: a one bedroom with hard wood floors, a blue-tiled bathroom, washer/dryer, dish washer, dry bar, pull-out couch, satellite TV, DVD player, and stereo system. Wow, writing all that down I admit I feel like an ugly American. Of course, all of those creature comforts are not necessary, but I must say it’s very pleasant.

On a separate note, I have been warmly welcomed by the staff here in Prague. It’s actually quite refreshing to be in a building with lots of windows (and therefore light!) and is rather green. The building has a quite an interesting history, with its former occupants members of the Old Guard.

I also attended church this weekend and spent time with an Albanian friend Fredi who I met when I was an intern in Tirana during the summer of 2004. We walked and walked and walked (which is what one does in Prague). Fredi was rather impressed by my ability to keep going so I informed him of my father’s speed walking upbringing.

Walking around Prague wasn’t all pleasantries. As I perused the streets in search of some of my old haunts I passed by group after group of drunk Brits and Germans here on bachelor “stag” weekends. Confronted with these rambling blokes, I realized Prague definitely needs a lot of prayer. On one hand it is such a beautiful city with just about every style of architecture on display, but on the other hand, I am reminded of the many aching, broken, searching hearts here and that this is a city surrounded by much darkness.

Last night I was treated to a wonderful dinner at a new swank place called, Sahara, not too far from where I live. I have to say after maintaining a relatively vegetarian diet the last few days that it was delicious to bite into succulent roast chicken and Greek-style potatoes in just the right amount of olive oil and seasoning. I only wish my salad included some nice wrinkly dark mediterranean olives. Some of you know my rule about olives being wrinkled. If they aren’t wrinkled, they just don’t cut it with Xaviera (For those of you who don’t know, Xaviera is my adopted middle name since at work I am CXF).

Friday, July 21, 2006

Shuffling off to Praha!

There are most definitely other most probably very pressing things I should be doing at this moment such as packing, but an extraordinarily strong pull to Jordana’s computer has led me to this intriquing world of blogging. I dare say I have taken the step off the precipice of former cyber anonymity and am now ready to more deliberately and purposefully make use of this medium. What better way to share …. are you ready…. the VOICE OF CHRISTINE or what my roommate officially and affectionately has coined the VOC. Some people wake up to NPR (I do), and others such as Jordana and Heather have the added benefit of the VOC. But to reach the masses I have decided to coopt the blogosphere world.

Without further ado, welcome to my blog. I intend to post thoughts and reflections over the next few months. As many of you know and for those of you who perhaps haven’t heard, I leave for a five-month stint in the beautiful gem of Prague today! This opportunity is a true Godsend and I am ecstatic to say the least. No more days of student dormitories or penny pinching hostels, I have finally passed from the era of student frugality to official working-womandom. I’m so happy to share that a little apartment in the heart of Prague is awaiting my arrival as well as a few old and newer friends. What a blessing to connect with friends from nearly 10 years ago and to return to one of Europe’s most beautiful cities!

Alas, my dears, the pangs of guilt are calling me back to my previous task of assembling my business and favorite casual attire and all those little things that will helpfully make me feel at home in the Czech Republic. So, until the next time, I must bid adieu.