Friday, December 15, 2006

Celebrating Christmas Czech Style

On Monday earlier this week I joined my friend Imelda and her husband’s family for her father-in-law’s company’s (Metrostau – a major Czech construction firm) holiday party. I guess I was expecting some Christmas music, carols, red and gold decorations, but what I found were chic Czechs, tender Prague ham, horseradish (yum yum – you know you’ve got Slavic blood flowing through you when you can’t get enough of this hot and numbing substance), a selection of cold items, little cakes, and an acapella group, The Reporter, dressed in black. I have to say The Reporter was absolutely fantastic, singing several Czech songs in addition to a few American tunes like Clapton’s “Tears in Heaven” and “Love and Marriage” but with extra special, very creative arrangements. I was a little taken a back at first by the black costumes (after all, this was a Christmas party), but then I realized this was actually a holiday party, and it was after all the Czech Republic.

I have to share a funny story from that night. I guess as I was walking towards Imelda and her in-laws, Imelda’s father-in-law questioned her, “So, you’re friend is American? But, she’s so small! She’s American??” Czechs as well as many Europeans think automatically that Americans are large, overweight people. They are entirely surprised when they see otherwise. Imelda and I had a good laugh fortunately. I must add, though, that the Czechs better watch out or they will soon have similar rates of obesity. They already lead the European Union in highest rate of colon cancer (I venture a guess based on their starch-filled diet with little fiber.).

Just a few minutes ago I returned from our company’s holiday party, which was held in the building, the party area set up like a Czech market or fair. At five p.m. a folk group started playing folk songs and dancing, which was followed by more modern pieces played by the children of employees. I somehow got roped into volunteering to help kids at a craft table, making cards with stamps, markers, and scissors. It’s was really neat to see kids of so many different nationalities, including Central Asians, Czechs, Americans, and several others. While I enjoyed making a few snowflake-esque cut outs to paste on a few cards, I was very envious of the table next to me where kids were making traditional Czech crafts with dried fruits. Back in the day, Czechs would take apples and make them into candle holders with thin sticks emanating out bearing pieces of dried apricots and raisins. I have to say these very simple ornaments have won me over. I’m a bit tired of the glitzy schmuck of silver and gold bulbs and flashy lights. There’s something to be said for simplicity.

Yet another way in which the holiday season is celebrated in this part of the world is Christmas markets. Last night after a little dinner soiree I took a nice, leisurely walk with my friends Lenka and Karolina to Old Town Square. There are wooden booths with red roofs lining the square with a carved wooden crèche and lookout point in the middle. We sipped on hot glasses of svarak (mulled wine) and took in the sights. Strolling through the streets of Prague Lenka and Karolina told me more about how Czechs celebrate on the 24th. To sum up what Christmas means to most Czechs, according to Lenka and Karolina, it means family time, eating carp and potato salad followed by dozens of little cookies, burning cones or pyramids of frankincense throughout the house, and gathering around the TV to watch Czech fairytales.

Well, now I really have visions of sugarplum fairies dancing in my head :)

Friday, December 08, 2006

An Evening at the Rudolfinum

So, it was about 6:30 Thursday night, and I was just finishing up work. I thought about going to a movie, maybe catching Casino Royale, but I suddenly remembered that the one thing which I love to do in Prague that I have not yet done is go to the Rudolfinum concert hall! Well, I checked out the website and realized the Czech Philharmonic had a concert (BRAHMS: Concerto No. 1 in D minor for piano and orchestra B. MARTINŮ: Overture H 345B. MARTINŮ: Symphony No. 1). There was even a visiting pianist Garrick Ohlsson. I wasn't sure what my chances were of getting a ticket, but I thought it was worth a shot, and probably a better use of my present location than the movie theatre.

Well, in my somewhat ugly-American fashion (or perhaps a slavic Bridget Jones' way), I stopped by McDonald's to pick up a quick chicken salad, pushed it into my back pack and hopped on the metro. You see where this is going, right?

Come to find out there were plenty of seats, but I opted for the cheapest, which happened to be the orchestra section behind the Philharmonic. With ticket in hand, I exited the building and made my way to the majestic riverside where I proceeded to eat my chicken salad in the somewhat cold evening. Yes, lovely couples walking hand in hand passed by, I'm sure, wondering what on earth was the creature on the bench doing chowing down on a fall/winter evening next to Prague's premiere concert hall. Well, of course, I was eating dinner on the run. It happens to be a family trait I picked up in grade school :)

To make this long story shorter... I finished my meal and found my way to the orchestra section where I realized I had a bird's eye view of the conductor, Zdenek Macal, and the Philharmonic. Not only did I have an amazing perspective looking down on the musicians, but I also could look out on the audience and was able to capture the emotion on multiple occasions on their faces. I remember one elderly lady patting her eyes dry with a tissue. Despite the back pain I suffered not having a seat back (it was sort of the equivalent of bleacher seats in Oriole Park at Camden Yards), I was entirely enthralled by being so close to the music, caught up in the conductor's graceful moves, and passionate expression.

And, to think I almost went to the movies! The Rudolfinum is probably my favorite place in Prague; an intimate concert hall where music flows so naturally and beautifully, grasping the heart and soul of its visitors.

Thursday, December 07, 2006

Litvinenko

Here’s my two cents on the very sad murder of Aleksandr Litvinenko:

My bet is on the Kremlin, but possibly an oligarch or mafia clan (Litvinenko had many enemies). It’s quite interesting that after promising ‘full cooperation” that Russian authorities have placed many restrictions on the British investigators ability to perform a full-out investigation within Russian borders. The British are not able to take the lead, but must have Russian officials conduct interviews of potential suspects and/or witnesses. What’s more, the Russian Prosecutor-General Yury Chaika announced that any Russian citizen implicated in the murder case will be tried in Russia, not in Britain. He went on to say that there will be no extraditions, and then added a few words about Britain’s failure to turn over the self-exiled Russian oligarch/businessman Boris Berezovsky and Chechen separatist envoy Akhmed Zakayev. The Russians want these men badly, but the Brits have refused. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Despite the bad press Russia is getting, perhaps this is exactly the type of bargaining chip for which it has been looking…. And, perhaps the Kremlin is so self-confident that they could care less if half the world thinks they are actively silencing and takin gout dissident voices, basically anyone perceived to be a threat or doesn’t tow the Kremlin’s line. Don’t forget about Viktor Yuschenko, the President of Ukraine who nearly died of dioxin poisoning and has a permanently disfigured face.

One more interesting note… from what I’ve heard translated from Russian news one of the theories being touted within Russia is that Litvinenko was a rogue, trying to prepare some sort of dirty bomb, which he planned to explode, but in the process it backfired and killed Litvinenko himself. I have to wonder what other messages are being carried along those airwaves and TV. But, I really don’t want to become yet another person with a last name ending in “KO” to reach a very unfortunate end so I’ll stop there.

Wednesday, December 06, 2006

Pirohy recipe


Returning to my favorite topic, Slovakia.... I happened to check my email and found this lovely, translated recipe from my relative Pavol and his mom. We have quite the recipe exchange going... he and his mom now want my chocolate chip cookie recipe!

Anyway, Grandma, Aunt Pat, Mom, this one is for you :)
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Pirohy

The first step of this recipe is to prepare the pastry from which we create the pirohy. Put on a moulding-board ½ kilogram of half- whole-flour (polohruba).

Add 1 egg , 1 soup spoon of mashed (sieved ) boiled potatoes , a pinch of salt (Mom uses a half coffee spoon) and water (at need) into the midlle.

Mix all of this to form the pastry. The pastry should be neither tough nor soft so we can roll it adequately.

Then roll the pastry out until the textures is about 3 millimeters thick.

Once we have done the rolling, take a cup or a glass and cut out circles from the pastry.
After creating the circles, we fill them with the filling.

Once we have filled a circle of pastry with the filling, we close the circle creating a crescent moon shape. We then close up the edges.

So now the pirohy are ready to be placed into a pot of boiling water. We put them into the boiling water and mix them occasionally. We have to be very careful when we are mixing them that we don't break them. And when do we know that they have been cooked? It is easy, when they float to the top we know they are ready to come back out again.

Once the pirohy are back out of the water, they are ready to be served. They taste best when they are gravied with hot melted butter and at the end ,flavoured with a pinch o salt.

The filling - circa 1 soup plate volume:
½ soup plate of curd (cottage cheese)
½ soup plate of mashed boiled potatoes (of course flavoured with salt)
1 yolk
circa 10 grams (1 pocket) of vanilla sugar plus normal sugar (by taste, if you prefer sweeter filling). Mix all of this together.

DOBRU CHUT !

Time flies when you're having fun...

Hi there! Yes, I know… it’s been a long time. All I can say is that it is pretty crazy how the time between Thanksgiving and Christmas flies by. In general, the past few months have whizzed by. I don’t know where they’ve gone.

And, of course, there are certain promises made which I have yet to make good on. I still intend on writing a few pieces on family, tracing roots, and time (how we are slaves to it, my frustrations with people’s busy schedules here).

But, turning to the moment at hand, I find myself blogging on a dark, rainy night. I actually spent an hour after work visiting the Christmas Market at Namesti Miru (Peace Square) and then being persuaded to get Thai food at this place called “Tiger, Tiger”. I have to say, “Tiger, Tiger” serves up some mighty tasty pad thai kung (w/shrimp)! Of course, you sort of pay American prices, but it’s worth it! By the way, if I can take a moment to complain, the dollar continues to lose value against the Czech crown. When I first came 1USD bought about 22.5 Kc. Currently 1USD buys about 20.9 Kc. And, back when I was here in 1997, my dollar got me about 32-36 Kc. How times have changed!

Life has been full here. On the one hand, I absolutely can’t wait to land in the little dinky airport of Binghamton, NY and to find myself cozy in my family’s home, preparing to celebrate Christmas. But, on the other hand, here I am, actually feeling pretty settled, building friendships, and not so ready to pick up and leave. I guess part of me, the realist that is, is worried about the reality of continuing my new friendships at a distance. I know how I tend to get busy and although I really care about people, I often fail to write or call. I’m thinking though that this blog might come in handy. :)

It’s been quite an interesting time here in Prague this time around. At first I had a hard time looking at the city without thinking of the people that made it so special for me in the first place, and realizing they were no longer here (including, a rather dashing Viennese boyfriend). But, with time and persistence, God has proven himself ever faithful in blessing me with yet new friends, dear friends from Prague, Hungary, Indonesia, South Africa, Australia, and a few other places. And, least I forget, I even have a few new distant family members in Slovakia. Little did I think that Slovakia would have such a impact on me, but it has.

This past Sunday there was an international bazaar put on by the Women’s Diplomatic Association, and I happened to stop by the Slovakia table. Well, I made a purchase (can’t release details at this point), and the sales guy threw in a T-shirt, which I only realized once I got home read in Slovak: “Slovakia, little big country.” Now, some of my Korean American friends (Mark Kim) might be laughing, but that logo sounds absolutely perfect to me. Indeed, in a sense it sums up some of my feelings about the struggle in my heart between the city and the country. I have to say, I’m at heart a country girl, who is drawn to city life, but can’t fully pull herself away from the country. A mix of both is essential for me.

Learning about Slovakia in an academic sense, you read a lot about how Slovakia was in many ways behind the Czech Republic, which was a center of industry even prior to WWII. In fact, the Nazis exploited this fact and relied heavily upon Czech factories for supplies during the war. This long running industrial tradition definitely helped the nation economically. When the two countries peacefully separated, Slovaks chose this route mainly because they did not want to undergo the harsh economic reforms that Czech leaders forecasted were necessary.

In the sports’ arena, I also understand that the Slovaks have a bit of an inferiority complex. (My brother is all over this point.) Although the Slovaks field a mighty talented national ice hockey team, for some reason, they always fail to beat the Czechs. Can you imagine? Today both countries are undergoing strange political times. The Czech Republic doesn’t really have a functioning government, and this situation has been ongoing since the elections earlier this spring. Slovakia, for its part, is in the midst of a populist backlash. Yes, they are recent (2004) entrants to the European Union, but they still have a ways to go in terms of building strong state institutions, developing responsible leaders, and rooting out corruption. I say all this as a backdrop to my emotional attachment to this “little, big country”, with which I have an ancestral connection. Warm people and snowy mountain tops go along way in winning one over. :)

What else? This past weekend I got to meet a pretty neat young college student from Azerbaijan. Nazila was so impressed I knew her country’s capital, Baku, that she decided she needed to find out what more I knew. Hahaha. So, our conversation stretched from Baku to media crackdowns to Russia to Anna Politskaya to the Litvinenko poisoning to the Masons (Of course, all in logical succession). :) Oh, I almost forgot, but we also touched upon some more sensitive subjects such as Armenia and the Jewish diaspora in Azerbaijan. When I broached the topic of Armenia, I think the response was, "Well, we don't like them." My experience in the Balkans and in interacting with people from the Caucasus has taught me the fine art of walking on egg shells.

But back to a topic we both were very excited about, Nazila and I are teaming up in a quest to figure out the real meaning of free masonry, what they do, what all the secrecy is about... :) I think it’s pretty cool that I now have an Azeri partner-in-crime in this little endeavor. Nazila happens to be in Prague as a student on scholarship, studying economics in Czech. Yes, the Czech government gives out a certain number of scholarships to foreign students, brings them here and teaches them Czech, tests them in the subject matter in Czech, and then grants them a spot at a uni if they pass with high marks. Did I mention they only learn Czech for 6-8 months before applying for a university spot? To me, it’s all madness! I can’t imagine, but I’m awfully impressed by these young students to say the very least.

I think that’s all for now folks. Raymond, I hope you’re happy! I’ve got pictures a plenty, but unfortunately too little time. I’ll see what I can do. I’ve got some great shots of sheep and the hillsides of northern England :)