Wake Up, Prague!

I’m not a superstitious person by any means, but I must say that this morning my walk to work made me a bit flustered and gave me a little worry about the day ahead. As I made my way down Mezibranska street, a lively artery in the Prague vehicular traffic pattern, the air quality around 9am was simply very bad and the cars were quite aggressive. Prague, as pictures indicate, is an amazingly beautiful city, BUT the air quality leaves MUCH to be desired. And, that is an unfortunate thing. Evidence of this is all around, from the blackened statues of the saints on Charles Bridge to the dirty, soiled buildings. One last grumbling: if the vehicular traffic doesn’t get you, the second hand smoke surely will. But what really got me this morning was a honk. I don’t think it was even intended for me; I simply was an unfortunate bystander. For a moment I thought I was in Manhattan or DC. Honking is uncivilized in my book; it is simply rude and very obnoxious.

My hatred of tooting the horn goes back a ways. I still remember walking through our garage and to our car one spring morning in high school when my dad honked the horn in my face just as I was maybe a foot or two in front of the car (literally). Okay, I was late, which was my and my sister Karen’s common practice. We ALWAYS pushed it to the limit in how long we could sleep, and I’m sorry to say we gave little thought to our dad’s need to be in school in time for his homeroom and simply to prepare for the school day. But, I still don’t think he had to toot the horn in my tender ears at 7am. I’m happy to say I’m out of high school and although my dad likes to drive me around oftentimes, I have not been the recipient of any further honks at home.

So, this wasn’t such a nice way to begin on Monday. However, despite these early morning unpleasantries, I have to say it has been a good day. We have a few visitors in from the field who treated us to Bosnian Turkish delight and Kyrgyz nuts, dried apricots, and figs. You might see it’s usually the little things that both frustrate and delight.

Farewell, audieu, aufwiedersehen, goodbye...to Pluto, once a planet, now to be a dwarf...

I hope you all were able to imagine me singing that to the tune of the famous Julie Andrews song in the movie, Sound of Music. :)
Friends, I'm sure you have all heard by now the sad story of a once deemed planet with a name more recognizable for the Walt Disney dog than for the Roman God with which it also shares its name. Yesterday delegates to the meeting of the International Astronomical Union here in Prague dealt Pluto a heavy blow, and have removed it from the first class status of "planet" and have re-defined it as a "dwarf planet". What exactly a dwarf planet entails is still, from what the critics say, up for debate. Is Pluto now to be confused with one of Snow White's little friends? I guess only time will tell.

While I was holding out hope for the "mini-planet that would", deep down I was internally facing the reality that just maybe Pluto didn't belong in the exclusive group in the first place. No, I'm not a turn-coat, but you know... facing reality, facing the writing on the wall (or the solar system) can be a good thing. It's a healthy thing to revisit our past decisions and correct our mistakes when we realize we were in error.

I'm glad to know that Pluto has many sympathizers who will be there to soften the blow. In fact, she has company in the newly named category of "dwarf planets" and this group is only expected to grow in leaps and bounds in the near future. Just think of the wisdom Pluto will bring to the table, a former member of the galactic elite, she is sure to be a front runner amongst the planet dwarfs.

Okay, I never knew I could write so much about Pluto. We were never really that close so to say, but if you know my sports team favorites, you know I've always had a heart for the little guy. But, now I will stop and turn your attention to a REALLY LOVELY op-ed contribution by Tim Kreider in yesterday's New York Times (http://www.nytimes.com/2006/08/23/opinion/23kreider.html?n=Top%2fOpinion%2fEditorials%20and%20Op%2dEd%2fOp%2dEd%2fContributors). Mr. Kreider is a cartoonist with a tremendous wit and real love for our demoted planetary friend Pluto. This will truly touch your heart!

By the way, I had great plans to hop the metro to the convention center to film part of the IAU conference (at least some of the signs and marketing), but alas, I did not make it. :( Instead I've included a picture here of the astronomical clock in Old Town Square.

The Czech Dream

When I first arrived in Prague in mid-July, I remember taking an initial stroll through town and thinking that things seemed pretty much the same. Perhaps I was in a jet-lagged daze or maybe I simply wasn’t looking too hard, but my first impression was, “Wow, I feel like I’m back in 1997, but without the familiar faces.” While there is some truth in that statement, I’ve realized rather quickly thereafter that boy have things changed in Prague!

Before any of my old Prague pals worry, the super deep metro escalators that double as bomb shelters are still very well in place as are the super fast engines that move the escalators. You’ll also be happy to know you can still catch a ride in an old Soviet produced metro car, but they are being gradually replaced by new models from elsewhere in Europe. As for the diet, rohliky (simple rolls in the shape of a crescent usually eaten for breakfast) still rule the Czech breakfast routine, but now you can actually get coffee to go. I know this might be hard for those of you who have never ventured outside of the USA, but the idea of coffee on the go and doggy bags (which you can also now get in Prague) are very new to most of the rest of the world. Last Saturday I discovered a place called “Coffee Heaven” at the bottom of Wenceslas Square that has enough seating area to make most Starbucks look more like a coffee stand. They even offer a host of different Czech coffee cakes, but no real muffins are to be found. That’s okay though; I know a blueberry muffin or lemon pound cake has my name written all over it back in the States. For now, I’ll savor every bite of my scrumptious Czech plum cake.

It’s so funny and odd to say this, but it really began to sink in, just how much Prague has changed, when I decided to watch the movie “Pirates of the Caribbean – Deadman’s Chest” at a theatre called Dom Slovansky on Na Prikope (a main pedestrian thoroughfare). Little did I know when I set out that night I’d be heading to a spanking new and VERY fancy (“shi-shi”) shopping center carved out of an old building or two on the lively main Prague street. I remember back in the days of ’97 catching a flick in Kino Lucerna (actually I think a group of us saw Evita with Madonna and Antonio Banderas) with creaking seats and curtains that made for an ambience circa, oh, I don’t know, maybe 1970? Sitting in my swank bucket seat in Dom Slovansky, I really felt as if I could be in Edgewater, NJ or Alexandria, Virginia at some United Artists or Regal Cinemas. As an American who is sadly accustomed to chain malls and restaurants, despite my aching back I really liked the charm of watching a movie at Kino Lucerna. But, the nice thing about Prague, at least for the time being, is that you have MANY choices as to where you want to watch your movies. I can still visit Lucerna or several other smaller, older, quainter theatres or I can hit one of MANY multiplex cinemas. It’s really rather crazy. Perhaps I should give the Czechs a lesson or two from my former bank debt days. I fear though that the future might hold a few less theatres; probably fewer art houses. I’d venture to say the number of multiple will remain steady.

But getting back to changes in Prague, I took my friend Fredi from Albania up to Letna park (near the metronome) to have a beer and see the view from this beautiful green Park up top near Prague 6 district. My Viennese friend Dominik introduced me to the beer garden there one evening after literally bumping in to each other grocery shopping at Kotva (“a traditional” department store in existence during Communist days). We spent really lovely nights first walking up the steps from the bridge and then sitting out on the picnic tables under the trees and stars sipping a beer or two with our mutual friends Anna and Dani and Dominik’s visitors from Austria on occasion. Back in 1997 Letna, as far as I remember, really wasn’t what I’d call full. Yes, there were and still are the nice tennis courts where I used to imagine the likes of Martina and Ivan working the courts in their day (Note: That is purely my own imagination at work though; I have no idea whether or not they actually played there). And, yes there were always several groups of people fraternizing over beer and pretty often other substances, but there were always free tables. To get to my point, what Fredi and I experienced that night was proof to me that the middle class is alive and well in Prague (I can’t comment on the rest of the country). There were guys playing street hockey, there were roller bladders on all the little pathways, there were young couples with baby strollers out and about, and the beer garden was completely packed with the surrounding grassy area also quite full. Fredi and I staked out a piece of ground and enjoyed our beer and sausages in wonder of the lively crowd and very evident economic prosperity all around us. People were out having fun, enjoying their leisure time, not looking overly worried or burdened. I’m not trying in the least to give you the impression that Czechs don’t like to have fun (that is the farthest from the truth); rather, I’m simply trying to impress that a considerable middle class has taken shape. Czechs in Prague seem to be doing quite well, enjoying their new found wealth, and opting for leisurely venues. No longer is Prague a city where expats are the largest segment dropping hard currency; now it’s a city where Czech consumption has skyrocketed. Economically speaking, Prague has definitely seen tremendous progress in the last 10 years. But just as we see in our great capital city of Washington, DC, there still remains homelessness and poverty; beggars are strategically present on many corners in the touristed areas of town. And reminiscent of Moscow, St. Petes, and my days in Poland, you’ll for sure cross the path of some inebriated person, who seems to be drowning their sorrows and/or disenchantment.

But to top off this discussion of the middle class and growing consumption, consumerism and leisure, the other night I watched a movie called Cesky Sen, “The Czech Dream”, about the power of advertising and changes in the Czech Republic since 1989. Caught up by the idea of Czech hyper-consumerism, a couple of film students came up with a senior thesis idea of making a film about the advertising campaign of a new hypermarket, Cesky Sen. With the aid of a grant from the Ministry of Culture, they procured the services of Hugo Boss, an ad agency called MARK BBDO, and a marketing research company. The end product is a documentary about the conception of their idea, engagement of their marketing and advertising partners, the actual marketing scheme and the now infamous day, May 31, 2003 when a couple thousand Prague residents of all shapes, sizes, and ages came out to an open field for the grand opening of Cesky Sen, but it doesn't really exist (It was all a grand charade). Interspersed in the film are interviews of Czech families that are very earnest in sharing that shopping is a relaxing and favorite pastime, something in which they take great, great pleasure. For one young woman, she whined and fussed so much after her mom took her for a 6-km hike that her mom felt sorry and succumbed to her wishes to go shopping at the British retailer Tesco. If that’s not telling enough, when asked what the new hypermarket should be called focus group participants offered the following as possible names: “Oneness”, “Cornucopia”, “Harmony”, and “Get All Your Wishes”. There were definitely more, but I think you get the drift.

This display of hyper-consumerism is not just particular to the Czech Republic I’m sure, but it’s an especially stark depiction of the present day in contrast to the queues of Communism, in which people stood in line for hours to purchase a kilo of bananas (if bananas could even be found). I really hope I’ve enticed you to seek this movie out. It is a particularly thought provoking study of our human nature and the power of an idea coupled with gifted marketers. It will make you laugh I assure you! One of my favorites characters is the stocky self-professed fisherman and joker who works at a non-disclosed supermarket who claims near the end that this experience has made him decide to vote against accession in the European Union. Oh, and then there’s the theme song of Cesky Sen, which is chock full of goodies such as "It will be a nice big bash. And if you got no cash, get a loan and scream I want to fulfill my dream!" And there’s the mom in the parking lot who sings a poignant rendition of some traditional English song sung in round called “Hey ho” (… Hey, ho, nobody home, no meat, no drink, nor money I have none..”). Her two little girls join in. Okay. I’ll stop. If you can find it you should definitely watch Cesky Sen: http://www.ceskatelevize.cz/specialy/ceskysen/en/

Czech Lesson for the Day: Babcia - Meaning "Grandma"

An important lesson I've learned in broadcasting is that dead air is a no-no, and I'm sure that dead blog time is not far behind.

So, what's up? Or as they say in Czech, jak se mas? Jak se dari? Any thoughts dear readers on what these lovely ladies might be chatting about?


I've made the editorial decision to include this picture today simply because, I really enjoy old people. Yeah, really, at least for the most part. They are truly fountains of wisdom. Of course, they often become set in their ways with each passing year, but who else can you turn to for a good story about trekking 30km in the freezing snow with pieces of rubber tied around your feet on the way to school? Actually, come to think of it, some of my most impressive memories from childhood are grandparents day in school. We had a lot of fun doing tricks with a parachute, and I'll always remember good ole Dave Dubrava prancing around stage in a superman outfit while our chorus sang "Great American Hero". Yes, it was classic! Sigh...

Anyways, these elderly ladies reminded me of my own grandma at home in Whitney Point, NY. (Hi Super grandma!) It seems like Eastern European ladies have a thing for bold-patterned blouses. Or, maybe it's a trait of most elderly women :) It is a neat experience to be in a country from which my own family takes many traditions and has ethnic roots (Okay - I need to clarify we have Slovak heritage, but there is some overlap!). You'd think it might take away from the novelty of the adventure, but instead I find it so intriguing to dig even deeper into understanding what makes people here tick and what we've carried over into life in the States. By the way, there is a Slovak company over here named 'Spak' which makes an array of mustards and ketchups. There motto is, "Spak ma smak!" which translated means, "Spak makes tasty". You get the idea! Spak is actually my dear grandmother's maiden name. Very cool.

Of course, the other reason I seem to thrive over here is that I simply can't get away of my profound interest in post-Communist states. Speaking of which, did you realize that we've embarked on the 15th anniversary of the failed coup that triggered the collapse of the Soviet Union? I still remember travelling back crosscountry, waking somewhere in the middle of night in the panhandle of Texas or there whereabouts and hearing the news on the radio about Moscow and Gorby's poorly timed vacation in the Crimea. For those of you interested, please check out this RFE/RL North Caucasus service exclusive interview with the man with the really obvious birthmark himself, Mikhail Gorbachev: http://www.rferl.org/featuresarticle/2006/08/b3d3ee34-9efc-41df-b0e3-ca108f7581c8.html.

To wrap up, your word for today is babcia (which is also useful in other Slavic languages like Polish). Babcia means grandmother. Czech also uses a vocative (voice case) which changes the word slight to 'babciu' (when addressing granny).

So hug your babcia today :)

South Africa ... Very Average, Thank You...

Yes, I know I'm not the one in South Africa, but I do my best to respond to reader requests. So, Raymond, this one's for you!

When I do hear from the siblings again, I'll try to post a few more interesting pics. I believe this is near a vineyard outside of Capetown.

Not too much to report for today. However, I've learned an interesting new response to the question "How are you?" from a colleague from a certain country with nuclear ambitions. He likes to respond, "Very average, thank you." Yet a new response to the standard question.

I hope you, however, are doing better than "very average"!

Blessings to you,

Christine

Princess Warrior Xena the Planet?? Weighty Days in Prague...

Yes, fresh off the presses...

I will be lobbying against the designation of 3 new planets to our solar system this week. As many of you know a meeting of the 2,500 world renowned astronomers from some 75 nations is currently taking place in Prague, Czech Republic. These scientists are the arbiters of just what is and is not a planet. Hmmm, what a meteor-sized chip on their shoulders! Sorry :)

But, to get to the point, there is a very serious draft resolution before the International Astronomical Union pressing for the inclusion of 3 new planets. According to their distance from the sun, these would include: Mercury, Venus, Earth, Mars, Ceres, Jupiter, Saturn, Uranus, Neptune, Pluto, Charon, and what is for the time being called 2003 UB313.

Of course, there is also an anti-Pluto designation in representation, too. Could you imagine stripping Pluto of its 1930-bestowed title of "planet"? What a cataclysmic shock to the system... one day a planet, the next a has-been? Well, these are very decisive days in Prague. In fact, it could mean the changing of billions of school text books of children throughout the world. What more, the MIT discoverer of 2003 UB313 has a soft spot in his heart to call this new planet Xena. (Yes, after the Princess Warrior).

Several constituents of mine in both Maryland and Virginia have brought this matter to my attention. Please rest assured that I will share your concerns with every astronomer-esque looking individual I run into on the Prague metro. :)

Unfortunately, no pictures of any planets to add here, but I want to honor my sister Stephanie and brother Mark who are currently in South Africa. Aren't they cute?

Saturday Ramblings

Happy Saturday! I just finished a workout at the gym and the adrenalin is flowing :) What a good feeling. I hope I have motivated at least one person to get moving!

Actually, it's been at the gym where I've realized time and time again how much of an American I am. For instance, I spend half my time looking in earnest for some sign of a water fountain; at times I fear I look like a horse in search of a brook or a panting dog longing for her water bowl. Alas, there are no such things as public water fountains in this country or I'd say in much of Europe. It's really an American luxury.

What more? ... Well, there's the music on the radio, something I like to call (excuse me my European friends) Euro-pop trash (i.e., boy bands, girl bands, and at times lower end rap). But, I did hear Robbie Williams, which I'm learning to like. I shouldn't complain all that much, I got to hear some of the Cranberry's today as well as Michael Jackson and yes, the Spice Girls :) Both Michael Jackson and the Spice Girls took me back in time. Isn't that a wonderful thing about music? Thinking about poor ole Michael, I have to wonder what really happened there. I guess a good deal of the blame is American and World-pop celebrity status at the age of 5. By the way, Michael Jackson was and pretty much still is HUGE in Eastern Europe. In fact, in the very spot a humungo statue of Stalin stood over the city of Prague, a statue of Jacko was raised prior to one of his concerts. His fans and much of the city loved it so much it stayed for a quite some time (this is what I've been told), but the city officials finally decided (just as the Rocky statue in Philly was moved) it was a bit kitschy and removed it. What currently stands is a giant metronome keeping the city in step. Back to Michael, it's really too bad that his music has trended on a downwards decline of late. They played "Black or White", which is really an outstanding song, especially the video that was released alongside it. Remember the awe you experienced when watching the changing faces?

And then, there's the Spice Girls. Somehow, today listening to their music I was transported back in time to what I'd call a time of ignorant bliss, when the world seemed a whole less complicated and dangerous. I guess as G.I. Joe always reminded us at the end of another episode knowledge is indeed power, but the weight of the world seems to grow heavier in light of events in the Middle East and the growing sense of threat and fear. Anyway, these are some of the thoughts lingering in my head this afternoon. I'll just finish by saying that I'm glad I don't submit to those fears, my faith sustains me, but I have to say there are definitely days when my walk seems a bit weighted down and not nearly as light as the days before Posh married Man U's David Beckham. Well, at least Beckham has hair now. :)

And that my friends, is the Voice of Christine signing off.

PS: Mark, brother, I know you'll be disappointed, but I missed seeing Franz Ferdinand and Pet Shop Boys last night. Instead, I spent the evening with some Czech friends and a couple of Hungarians in from Budapest. Ah, I got my butt kicked in foosball (table soccer). It was a lot of fun though.

Charles the Fourth, St Nicholas & Castle in the Distance

My attempt at Artistry :)

St. Nicholas Church at Night

Here's a humble shot at night photography! 

The National Museum at Night

For you Mission Impossible die-hards, one of the beginning scenes (a diplomatic ball or something of the like) was filmed inside this museum. The actual collection is kind of boring, but the architecture is a must see! 

My Prague Birthday

As I sit here taking a coffee break, sipping my espresso and savoring each bite of my kolac, a danish type pastry filled with sweet cheese, jam, and a poppyseed mixture, I’m in Eastern European culinary heaven. The last time my taste buds feasted upon poppyseed was Easter time when my mom delivered to me a traditional poppyseed roll from a local Ukrainian church. I’d venture to say that for most of you, your experience with poppyseed has been limited to lemon poppyseed muffins, but I encourage you, if you have not yet, to sample the many offerings of Czech, Polish, Slovak, Ukrainian, Russian, and Hungarian sweets. They are not what I’d call overly sweet, but just right. A friend from Holland has complained about the lack of butter and sugar, but in my opinion, Eastern European pastry chefs have achieved a happy compromise between American high-sucrose laden goodies and the Dutch rich and creamy desserts. I’d include a picture here, but alas, my kolac is gone! 

St Nicholas Church Square

Yesterday, August 8, I awoke somewhat hesitantly, not quite sure how I’d feel about spending my birthday far from family and friends. Several days of cool, dreary weather had preceded Tuesday, but when I looked out the window before deciding what to wear to work I was greeted by rays of sun. In my heart of hearts, I knew this was a blessed day, and twas. Shortly after work I made way to Malostranska Namesti to the steps of St. Nicholas church, one of Prague’s outstanding examples of the Baroque. I proceeded to walk up Nerudova Street past cafes, restaurants and stores occupying former burgher homes.

Cafe on Nerudova

One of many touristed cafes. 

Meet Lenka!

Just around the Romanian embassy I met up with my friend Lenka who I first met the summer of 1998 when I worked as an au pair for a family in Regensburg, Germany. Lenka took me on a walk of the summer gardens around Prague Castle and for some spectacular views of the city. 

Outside of Maly Buddha, Cobble Stone Streets Galore

After our leisurely walk we made it further uphill to a restaurant called Maly Buddha where we met my cousin Mary and her colleague/friend Jana from the Czech embassy in Washington for an evening of Asian/Czech fusion. I could, of course, go on and on, but let me sum up by saying that we four women shared a bit of our life experiences, which made for highly enjoyable conversation. A couple highlights, we heard stories of Jana’s time as a human rights worker in Rwanda, Chechnya, and Kosovo as well as Lenka’s near death experience with malaria while spending 1 ½ years in Uganda. And, my cousin Mary and I shared a few family stories, including our crazy siblings (especially our sisters!) and entertaining, humorous, and all-around amazing dads, who are brothers. Speaking of which, my dad is coming for a visit in October! 

Maly Buddha's Value Meal

And to top off the evening, we had a few bowls of homemade walnut ice cream with fruit and whipped cream. (Raymond and Ben, you would have been in heaven :)). As my dear friend Vineeta would say, it was simply ‘delightful’.

Sorry, no photos of the ice-cream!

Fire Twirler!!!

Afterwards I walked down Uvoz Street with Mary and Jana, stopping by a few cafes and bars to check them out and on to Charles Bridge where we were amazed by the number of people out. We also got to see a street or should I say bridge performer twirling rings of fire. Man, if I had stayed a bit longer, I think I would have been high on kerosene! (No, Kevin Kim, that would not have been a good thing!) 

Charles Bridge/Karlov Most on a Summer's Night

From Charles Bridge I decided to walk the rest of the way home (not exactly what my mom would have liked, but hey, there were A TON of people out) through the winding tourist-filled streets near the bridge, past the Estates Theatre, on to Old Town Square and finally to Wenceslas Square and home! 

On the Way Home... Fast Food A La Prague

Along the way I stopped to experiment with night photography, shooting some of the GIGANTIC scuptures lining Wenceslas as well as neon-colored sausage/wurst stands.

MANY, MANY THANKS to you all who wrote, called, and were simply thinking of me yesterday. I felt very loved and somehow close to you all. Funny how that works :) Oh, and by the way, I must add that the Monk-Emails are really quite entertaining! Susanna, it was great to hear your voice. Mauricio, too bad you hid behind some British voice :) Very fun stuff to say the least. 

Random Thoughts

Why I’m REALLY glad not to be in DC this summer:

To escape this!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

…A severe weather statement for the Washington DC Metro area through Thursday, August 3rd:
“We are anticipating an extreme heat wave with temperatures of up to 104F. These temperatures combined with high humidity will cause the heat index to rise to 110F.” (Federal Government announcement to employees)

On life in the Czech Republic:

As of July 1, the Czech Government issued new traffic regulations in order to cut down on the extremely high number of driving accidents. In fact, according to European Union statistics, Czechs drivers have the highest number of accidents in the EU. An Italian I recently met also noted that Croatia had made mandatory extra insurance requirements for Czech tourists given their poor record in what is the most popular vacation destination in Europe.

But to get explain a bit of bureaucratic Czech red tape, which I fine quite hilarious as a foreigner, but would pull out my hair if I were a resident…

Drivers 60 years of age and older now have to obtain a certificate from a doctor stating that they are competent to drive. An additional certificate is necessary at 65, then 68 and thereafter every two years. Drivers without a proper certificate may receive a fine of up to CZK 25,000 (1100USD).

Some Say We Are What We Eat, One Czech Says We Are What We Speak….A Note on Language:

“A language is a jealous and amorous lover reflecting itself in a mirror whenever a language community looks into it. It is a reflection in a mirror for its is such as we are, such as our life and our world is: and it is a lover for it has control over us to a certain extent. It compels us to think only within the scope of permitted limits. It is amorous, because it is subjective. It ties ribbons and bows and it gives a distorted view of reality here and there. It is jealous for it runs away, blurs and disappears when we don’t attend to it enough, when we don’t use it and when we are unfaithful with another language. A language is what we are. And we are what our language is.”

Miroslava Holubova, “Grandma’s Pepper Thus Teat Gas or How African Languages Adapt Themselves to the Modern World” in Multicultural Magazine, July 2006